CHANEL HAUTE COUTURE SS25

Under the dome of the Grand Palais Éphémère in Paris, last January, the Chanel Haute Couture SS25 show took place, conceived by Studio Perron-Roettinger. The collection celebrates the Maison’s 110 years of savoir-faire, passed down through generations, as well as the creative freedom and craftsmanship that transcend eras.   

As the Maison awaits Matthieu Blazy’s new creative direction, time is momentarily suspended to reflect on its identity—not with nostalgia, but with a style that intertwines rigor and lightness, defining a timeless allure.   

Beneath the reseda green metal structure of the Grand Palais, the two interlocking “C”s designed by scenographer Willo Perron fill the space. Beyond faithfully reproducing the Maison’s iconic logo, they also evoke the infinity symbol—an homage to the timeless style of the brand founded by Gabrielle Chanel.   

The scenographic installation comes to life in the grand nave of the imposing palace, whose classical architecture and glass ceiling impart a sense of majesty while offering natural, zenithal light, enveloping the setting in an ethereal atmosphere. The double-helix design of the structure seems to echo the Guggenheim Museum in New York, where the ramp becomes a central architectural element, creating a dynamic spatial experience. 

The two white platforms serve both as a runway and seating for the audience, creating a visually striking and elegant effect from above, while from other angles, they reveal a seductive and mysterious charm. The installation’s essential aesthetics enhance its geometry without superfluous distractions, emphasizing the path of the models who, as they walk, trace the infinity symbol—symbolizing Chanel as a continuously regenerating legend. The floor, in a neutral beige tone, contrasts with the brilliant white of the ramps, reminiscent of two seashells cradled by the warmth of the sand.   

31 rue Cambon in Paris is the Maison’s symbolic address, a place steeped in history and creativity. From the famous mirrored staircase, Mademoiselle Gabrielle would observe her shows with a keen eye, seated at the top of the steps. Reflection is not a new element for the brand, so Willo Perron integrated a series of mirrors into the installation, introducing a conceptual dimension that enriches the structure. These elements not only amplify the space but also evoke a sense of infinity and lightness, suggesting that Chanel is not merely a brand but a universe in constant evolution. Additionally, the audience seated on the ramps can catch glimpses of themselves at certain points, recalling the image of Coco Chanel secretly watching her shows from the top of the stairs.

Production - Chanel 

Scenography - Studio Perron-Roettinger 

Direction - Thierry Demaizière e Alban Teurlai 

Production coordination & Model’s scenography - Villa Eugénie
Sound - soundtrack composed by Gustave Rudman and arranged by Michel Gaubert 

Photography Credits -  Dezeen, Chanel official website, Getty Images, Villa Eugénie